Three finger drag climbing accident Jan 19, 2021 · The three-finger drag is efficient because it effectively relies on the tensile strength of your finger tendons. This is due to the similar length of the front three fingers. wow this seems so obvious but is really helpful! i hurt my hand moving quickly above a three-finger pocket a few weeks ago - heard/felt a little crunch in the base of my ring finger, but wasn't sure what happened. Around 14:23 he shows a mind-boggling feat of strength by hanging one-handed three-finger drag on a beastmaker 2000 middle edge and can even flex his hand under that load. . couldn't really remember what exactly my hand was doing when i hurt it, and couldn't tell what i Nov 11, 2024 · The video is very encouraging, though my break is only just above the knuckle, so probably harder to isolate when climbing - even not actively using the little finger on a hold there might often be pressure on the area of the break and I'm not sure how much any splint or whatever might be in the way. I'm only trying to help you know where to start your journey. The young uns are much more into open hand grips. I'm not a coach so can't really give you advice on what would improve your climbing performance but your 3 finger drag will definitely give you a better chance of staying injury free. Like I said: Google it. Nov 2, 2024 · This is where I think three-finger drag hangboarding might be useful: in submaximal longer duration hangs to invoke lumbrical elongation (stretch your muscles) but also avoid the risk of injuries. It is useful because holds are often caught in this hand position before being reeled into a four-finger position. I've talked to a few people who are doing custom plans from Lattice Training and it seems Lattice likes to prescribe 30s density hangs for 3fd But look, this is very often the case: Can crimp with all 4 fingers on no pain + three finger drag (bonus points with dropping of the pinky towards palm) causes lotta pain = (at least, but not necessarily limited to) lumbrical injury (of some kind/degree). Hopefully shall be seen about it promptly. had some swelling in my palm/ring A1 area and pain when trying the three finger drag. It allows for imprecision and requires very little energy. Nov 10, 2024 · Our generation used to crimp almost everything (climbs were less steep) but it's terrible for your finger ligaments. Around 8:54 he shows an exercise to build three-finger drag flexion (scalable with feet on the ground) I'm curious about what others think about this. mqnqb gbjaedlp cowgl txkdsdz smj lelho ixjpbi zwlpkb vdil bcvk

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