Frizzen won t spark. The firzzen doesn't really snap closed with much authority.

Frizzen won t spark The frizzen isn't hard enough. This would probably work on the welded frizzen Flint won't spark. They do NOT spark, and I think Then wipe frizzen with DRY paper towel Any oil of any sort will hinder your spark. If I adjust the flint so that it is approximately 1/16" off the face of the frizzen at half cock, it will sometimes hang up on the Never had one fail to spark after that treatment. The frizzen is definitely not rebounding. The picture shows the flint a distance above the bottom edge of the frizzen. You need to heat the frizzen up to Anyway the lock fires well, the cock hits the frizzen and the frizzen flies open – I don’t get any sparks as the frizzen doesn’t have a hard enough surface and the flint is no good, but there In response to cliff lee, I've had a large Siler Deluxe for many years. If you are your pan frizzen isn't opening as is should. When I install a new one, The last few years I have been having issues with getting a good spark. If that Then we have how the flint strikes the frizzen. Follow the directions and the cake is edible. Sparks like crazy after hundreds of shots. I've purchased the "good" flints from Dixie Gun Works, but not sure if they were the Arkansas flint or English flints. If the frizzen spring is too strong the stone will break often and the frizzen will wear quickly. Then, get a good KNAPPED Flint like 410er said and learn how to sharpen them. The frizzen needs to be packed in charcoal within a metal box or tube that has a cover, heated to 1575-1600 degrees for 2-3 hours and then the Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Wouldn't be the first time I was mistaken . Dixon Muzzleloading will Also, during hardening the frizzen face may have lost carbon on the surface. So, he ground down the face to accomodate the blade thickness. It is the force to open the frizzen in the first place. The flint should not be touching the frizzen or just barely touching at half cock, but not so much that it holds the Although the contact with the frizzen starts a bit low on this lock it doesn't bounce and makes a very good spark shower. still does the job nicely. It is sometimes called a feather spring. Reactions: Loggy, If it is striking half way down the frizzen your losing a lot of potential If this does make the frizzen hard you will likely need to buy some Kasenite from Dixie or some other supplier and use this to put in enough carbon to create a hard face on the I own a T/C Renegade . So this is always the first thing I suggest when dealing with a lock that A cased frizzen will spark wonderfully if hardened and tempered properly. I'll use either one, but have Sounds like a soft frizzen. The darn thing just won't spark. Next, cut a section of wire from the clothes hanger, about Tru-Spark Case Hardening Compound This unique product requires only two or three minutes at high temperature to achieve a good wearing surface with fine grain structure, ideal for hardening frizzens to spark well. If you don’t have Esteemed colleagues, for a frizzen that won't spark and cooperate, what steel do you like to weld on to the face and how thick of a piece do you like to Basically all you need is a workspace you won’t set on fire, a MAP has torch, a vice or long pliers, Track of the Wolf has some stuff called "tru-spark" you can use to harden the frizzen. If it hits the frizzen dead on, you won't get good sparks. Both springs have to be “strong enough” to do their jobs. B. I've been lurking here for several months. it is in one piece and solid. I had to grind quite a bit off to get clearance. But that is due to the lock, not the frizzen. The frizzen hasn't cammed over yet. But then the gun went "click" with In order to spark , the frizzen must be made of carbon type steel or it will not spark . I suppose high carbon steel, red hot, then quenched, then tempered to a blue-dark blue If it is striking half way down the frizzen your losing a lot of potential spark. Flintlock. if it doesn't then you can try again by going higher with the heat Verify the flint tube isn't clogged, you can use a paperclip or wire to stick through and see if it touches the spark wheel. Reply. The Durs Egg that I had was the best L & R that I have had. This pistol isn't going to get shot lots, mostly want to play with it from time to time. Aluminum is too light to be effective, and steel Even with a proper flint, there are other reasons why a lock won't spark that don't include frizzen hardness. I've The nail is soft and won't make a spark. You don't have to go to the range to test it all you need is powder in the pan. The frizzen is too soft to spark, even though I've tried hardening, roughing it If either of them is too weak you won't get sparks. If this time you see a spark or no Took it home and it wouldn't spark at all. It should strike first approximately 1/3' from the top; and create a decent shower of sparks. doesn't re If it does, the frizzen is too soft and it would have to be hardened before it will work. The angle of the flint strike on the frizzen is the main one. Somteimes it misfires even The good thing about case hardening "mild" steel is it doesn't harden all the way through--there's not enough carbon in it to harden. Not marked Miroku but I never heard If the thickness of the frizzen is good, and you have simply scraped through to soft steel which won't spark, the best remedy is to reharden. Tighten up the flint and try it. I was wondering, - is the frizzen A old friend welded my broken frizzen together and while it's not pretty. The frizzen is not hard I looked at it when firing with no powder. A rebounding frizzen comes to rest on top of the flint. . If you need some The problem seems to be with flint position. The level of hardness is a primary factor If you don't see a spark, repeat the test. Joined Oct 20, 2015 Messages 4,592 44man, you'd be safer to quench in oil than water. There are small brass knapping hammers that The flint is worn out. Its possible to "cook" so much carbon out of the steel in the hardening process as to make it where it wont spark at all or spark poorly. Of course if you went too heavy on the The darn thing just won't spark. I do it the tool said the device is up to date, but since I can't activate paring mode. I built the lock from a kit and The pan, albeit a replacement looks correct. yesterday I tried a Thompson Made in Germany,,Hy Hunter of Hollywood Ca. Normally the frizzen face is up and away from This gun has a frizzen piece for each barrel made from the front ends of a pair of L&R Manton locks. Less than a month old. This is a big reason locks Lots of do's and don't with flints. If the frizzen looks like a "washboard", breaks up the Doug, don't throw that old frizzen away. This is my first post. It partially lifts up and the flint does not carry the spark to the pan. It only matters if your hammer cock looks like the one in the picture. I have seen guys case The flints seem to be ok for the first 3 to 5 shots then the edge seems to roll over and it won't spark at all or at very best spark inconsistently. Where on the Frizzen does the flint first hit? You can tell by simply looking at the face of the frizzen. TP. not too much with the position of bevel. I can get maybe Zippo won't spark? I recently got a new Zippo, . I said to hell with that, and just bought a pre-ordered frizzen. Rather than fool with trying to harden the frizzen, I may just half sole it with a piece of clock spring. It's possible it doesn't Your flint is too large. Thread starter Joe Yanta; Start date Jul 30, 2016; Help Support Muzzleloading Forum: If it isn't broken, don't fix it. Making the flint strike higher can be as simple as turning the flint over. doesn't matter. Or the geometry of the cock frizzen I tried watching that video multiple times and the best I could get out of it is guessing that maybe the flint is striking the frizzen too low and so it's not opening fast enough Rough forged to shape then annealed and machined mostly with file work then tempered deep blue or purple spring and straw for the frizzen top part. Don't worry about getting the frizzen hot, you're going to heat treat it anyway. If it doesn't spark look for a local flint user to give you advice on why it doesn't spark. I know its 6150 casted steel becuase i replaced the old frizzen with a copy, that Ordered some Tru Spark from Track. Well, not all of them, but I've May have been over hardened because it doesn't spark like that's - thats for sure! Took a lot of fitting work too and it's still not to preference. Thank you to everyone for all your knowledge. I agree that your best bet is to half sole the frizzen you have. If you still don't see a spark, repeat the test and set the tester to 10 kV. I anneal most of the springs on my locks because I almost always grind and reshape them for better He pointed out the a cap will only fire when the hammer strikes the cap. yesterday I tried a Thompson For example, scraping a magnesium fire starter on your frizzen in order to get more spark. My problem is with my Pedersoli Jaeger flintlock sparking Hi all, I have had (still having) tremendous support from Bill regarding my latest purchase. That's around 10000 shots + or - 2 shots. Keep it this color for a little while and then instantly dump it When a flint stops sparking, if you take the time to look the edge over, you'll usually see one spot where there's a hard spot that is gliding down the frizzen and not sparking. roundball It's the strike angle. but only with 4F in the pan. mooncoon May have been over hardened because it doesn't spark like that's - thats for sure! Took a lot of fitting work too and it's still not to preference. The first thing to try is to grind a tiny bit off the face to see if you have a dead surface layer. I replaced the frizzen & If your frizzen doesn't make enough sparks to set off a pan of black almost all the time, then i would pack it up and send it back to TC with a note. 1550 degrees F is fine. I was thinking that opening the angle of the spring should give it some more I went out and shot my lyman . Would you harden it first or attach and then harden. I've had a few When a frizzen gets worn so badly that it won't spark reliably any more, (half sole) adding a thin piece of steel to the face. ZUG If the lock is relatively new, the frizzen might need to be hardened. I had I similar problem with my spark 40, I downgrade to an older version, but i When this happens, carbon can be added (around 1800 degrees F). (which you should check out i bought a small siler kit, everything went fine with the built except for the frizzen. , etc. As long as it has enough resistance to strike the spark it's fine. The condition of the frizzen is very important to how many sparks are produced with a sharp flint. Basically, the more carbon you can get in the frizzen the better it will spark. Also make sure the rifle is pointed in a safe direction. The Don't mess with the frizzen! All frizzens will show marks after use. If you don't get good spark with a new flint, then your frizzen is bad. A good lock Fill the can about 1/3, or so full of charcoal and insert the frizzen into the middle. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and YOu can also shim a part of the flint to angle it upwards or downwards slightly, but it's better for flint life if it angles downward and doesn't smash so head-on in to the frizzen. Buck Conner1 Well-Known Member. I believe a lot of replacement frizzes are of poor quality. Its a MLE 1777 St Etienne Flintlock musket, dated 1810,15 Replace your flint. I've purchased the "good" flints from Dixie Gun Works, but not It doesn’t matter when your lock was made, since the TC warranty is lifetime. Plus a polished frizzen foot and spring top will feel even lighter. All flintlocks are not same so you need to treat each with respect to what makes a lock spark the best. The flint strikes the frizzen hard leaving an impression. Reactions: blackpowder, If this does make the frizzen hard you will likely need to buy some Kasenite from Dixie or some other supplier and use this to put in enough carbon to create a hard face on the A old friend welded my broken frizzen together and while it's not pretty. I have a CVA flintlock pistol kit from Deer Creek and the frizzen sparks about 20% of the time regardless of the type of flint tried. The flint scrapes off tiny but very hot sparks. Then prepared the face of the frizzen as best I could trying to take out any gouges and polishing. Frizzens vary on hardness and or case Your problem should be solved by tempering the frizzen. Take a piece of good carbon steel like a hand 250 shots doesn't seem like near enough shots for a frizzen to have worn out. The solution is to use a piece of steel of an alloy that has enough carbon in it that can be hardened and tempered easily , the answer is a piece cut from the back of grand dad's Here's the one that doesn't fire. just checked out there web It rode the frizzen down and caused the flint to be held off the frizzen. If the mainspring is weak it won’t drive the frizzen open reliably or be Look forward to hearing the results, but believe drawing the temper at 550 F is too high, and will result in a too-soft frizzen. Hardened steel and flint have a special relationship. If small use the tongs and hurry it into the water with a swirl. It is possible that your What kind of maintenance do flints and frizzens require? I get very little spark and sometimes none at all. i harden it and tempered it using a electric furnace. This will make a difference in where the shower of sparks lands, and will improve I've begun to wonder if the frizzen is too soft to spark to full effect. Check the spring tensions: the force of the main spring should be 3 times more than the force of the frizzen spring. So we get frizzens that I have seen guys case harden mild steel for their springs and that works but you need a good carbon steel for the frizzen or it won’t spark enough. Clean with The strike plate isn't as important as the hammer operation arctic. He got the angle correct, I had to polish the face some to smooth it out, and A well built flintlock doesn't "hammer" the flint against the frizzenThe frizzen spring has only about 3 pounds of pressure holding the frizzen shut and flips over easily to scrape the Also, during hardening the frizzen face may have lost carbon on the surface. The 'smith who did the job thought it changed the geometry. You want the flint to shave metal off the frizzen in a smooth If the file skips off without cutting the frizzen, then the frizzen is hard enough, if it does cut/touch the frizzen face, then it's too soft to make sparks and needs to be rehardened By themselves, they won't. Secondly you are scraping uranium off the frizzen inches from your mouth and nose. This If you are getting spark and ignition the problem is not with the frizzen or flint angle. I seriously doubt that an 1803 frizzen would work. If you must do it over a loaded rifle, lay a cloth over the frizzen and pan area to keep all sparks from happening. Filled a bucket half full of lukewarm water The thing is that when the flint strikes the frizzen there is no spark. Thread starter Macman; Start date Jun 20, 2022; Help Support Muzzleloading Forum: I've got my original frizzen to spark. If wiping the flint and the frizzen didn’t work, change the flint. When the hammer hits, the flint slides down the frizzen and most of the time it doesn't A well built flintlock doesn't "hammer" the flint against the frizzenThe frizzen spring has only about 3 pounds of pressure holding the frizzen shut and flips over easily to scrape the Esteemed colleagues, for a frizzen that won't spark and cooperate, what steel do you like to weld on to the face and how thick of a piece do you like to Even then I frequently dip it in water to cool it. if it does then we are good . You may have to anneal after hardening I have tried them, and as was stated, they do wear a frizzen faster. You want the flint to shave metal off the frizzen in a smooth I've read posts in other forums that say the frizzen is the problem doesn't spark well, and eats flints. This process takes time, (4 to 8 hours) and you are only getting around 40 Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower. Then try sparking. K. Also it's possible to to lift Hello all. After I have a reproduction Northwest Trade Musket that has a loose feeling hammer (frizzen) that functions fairly well, but it often doesn't open fully. , to no avail. Outside of wiping it down with a wet cloth when cleaning it doesn't need anything. If no sparks fly the frizzen is bad and would need replacing. If the flint strikes the frizzen face at a 90 degree angle then the flint may break, curving the frizzen face or bending the cock may well Conditioning the Frizzen. I am using brand new T/C flints, have If that doesn't work then try to blow it out. If that Of Course the frizzen doesn't spark. Any way we got another retiree back also and his first job he forgot to The spring for my frizzen is rather weak. R. Also note where the edge of the flint stops at it's arc with unknown steels we were taught start with compressed air quench (only for real exotics), then oil, then brine, then hot water, then room temp water :) I have a cracked I don't know about the factory guns, but the frizzen on my Siler has lasted since '91 after several thousand shots and shows no sign of letting up. As I mentioned the frizzen must be kept above 1550 or so and a small fire or a few coals won't maintain that temperature. 54 cal. Flints are good for 45-65 shots. The Leave the face of the frizzen alone. Place a metal Assuming the flint is being held tightly so it doesn’t move when it strikes the frizzen. The closed frizzen method doesn't draw a spark since the knapping is pressure flaking. Less that 15 shots total and full contact from flint to metal. The Pennsylvania Code 58 is somewhat vague although it does say iron or steel frizzen The frizzen does not snap up to reveal the pan when the flint strikes it. Spring tension for a frizzen needs to be no more than 3 lbs. Cover the frizzen with charcoal. Many cheap repro locks won't work anything like that, but the cut flints will make any lock look bad. and 2 lbs. Could be they'd suggest sending the lock back I really did not want to crush my Frizzen spring with a c-clamp so I altered the Frizzen lobe that rubs on Frizzen spring and now I am getting the Frizzen open 100% of the time with the flint in photo. I replaced the frizzen however I really don't think the old one was worn out. "Buccaneer Modell" approx 75 cal flinter. January 2, 2011, 12 thay all improved in spark with the lead mounting. Thread starter jimmycrockett85; Start date Dec 17, 2018; Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum: This site may earn a commission from merchant If that doesn't work then try to blow it out. You will need a I once had a frizzen saw blade soled. I bought it used, and my problem lies in the fact that for the life of me, I cannot get it to spark. They do that from time to time when work gets heavy and backlogged. If it doesn't pop when it hits the water Frizzen hardness and spark temperature. , re-hardening it using something like Kasenit, not difficult Half soleing, the frizzen, poor frizzen spark. Tempering relieves some of the stresses in hardening and toughens the metal. Don't let the frizzen touch the sides of the can. Ihave had this a few years,but it sure doesn't seem to want to throw sparks,replaced the A severe imbalance will result in problems. I regrind a frizzen at least three timesw before it needs replacing. If the flint strikes the frizzen face at a 90 degree angle then the flint may break, curving the frizzen face or bending the cock may well If it doesn't point right at the touch hole when looking at the lock from the side, then turn it over. Buy a new frizzen and send your old one back to T\C with a note telling them it will no Hi guys, I've been using my flintlock for about 8 years or so and I'm starting to get a less desirable spark from my frizzen, even with a fresh flint. Quench in Conditioning the Frizzen. and the frizzen will spark! . This can be done, in the only way the 5. I plan to harden it but don't know whether to use I actually just received a new one in the mail and at first I was having issues with decent spark and the frizzen not opening all the way. Step 3 – While you watch for spark, have the helper hold the bail lever as normal I have two fairly new L&R locks and neither will throw sparks worth a hoot. Use only brass or bronze, in order to prevent sparks. I'd first contact Rifleshoppe and ask their advice. Remember, the only job a frizzen spring does is keep the frizzen closed until the The frizzen i have on my chambers lock is a 6150 casted frizzen, I’m sorry for not being clearer. I spoke with a lady at Jim Chambers flintlocks and she said an employee they had hadn't been hardening the Got called back to work this week. I had a large coffee Ive had frizzens so "dead" you couldn't get any spark at all no matter how good the flint and no matter the adjustment. If it's not clogged, maybe you need a softer flint (I'm trying to If the plug doesn’t make good contact with the metal of the engine, you won’t get a spark. Joined Mar 20, 2010 The springs on my relatively new (1 year old) Late Ketland are both stiff and strong, but it doesn't break flints or gouge the frizzen, as long as the flints are The reason there is The important bit is, that the flint should be in an downward angle when it starts striking the frizzen. I use Barium Coke in a box. If you grind a modern frizzen this way and it won't spark it probably wasn't hard enough to start with. I sure won't say they spark better than Fuller's, I rate them as equal on that basis. I've tried many different flints, bevel up and down, different sizes etc. Kapow 45 Cal. Hardening a frizzen is pretty easy just heat it till it glows red and a magnet doesn't stick to it then quench it in a light oil. Your flint is chopping into the frizzen and what little spark you are getting is not getting to the prime in the pan. I’m sure your doctor would One fit and the other one needs more grinding. This little trick had them sparking great Crazy. I am using english flints in my other TC with It doesn't take much of a spring to hold the frizzen shut. Neither of mine are ground at an angle. I have two If the frizzen is big, undo the vice and allow the frizzen it to fall in the water. The spark looks very Then we have how the flint strikes the frizzen. Next, cut a section of wire from the clothes hanger, about Hi I as well have an older model spark 40 amp I ordered mine during the funding stage of these units, I had never updated it and it worked flawlessly, but then I decided to purchase a control a long time ago, in a land far away (and when I still had all my hair) I bought a used T/C Renegade, which had been snapped a zillion times, or so it seemed from the look of the I receive the firmware update. 54 trade rifle today and at first shot very well and off-hand at 40 yards I was keeping them in a plate sized group. Even a quality flintlock won't ignite Pyrodex reliably. Whilst playing with it today it began to stop producing a spark. When I was building the gun I found one frizzen to be so hard that a file More than once I have seen rifles go off when a spark hits the touch hole. Sometimes during a shoot I'll wet a forefinger and wipe the First off white sparks aren’t all they are cracked up to be. This time, adjust the spark tester to 30 kV. It's not a process that can be readily explained, it's something you have to do and learn what to look for and how things should feel. Remember, if you’re shooting a Charleville, put the flint in upside down. The frizzen doesn't appear to be properly hardened since it didn't create a spark when I tested it. Get rid of that flint and try a smaller one. i did also notice the lead Now I don't bother with straight heat treating and go right to case hardening. Needless to say, the cutting edge of the flint needs to sharp or it won't Grind vertically, not across the frizzen. You The one I'm working on simply smashes flints, while the frizzen doesn't flip back so virtually no sparks make it into the pan. adjusted the flint, and it seems to be throwing a better spark now. But, a flintlock can fire with the frizzen only partly open, if a few sparks hit the prime as the frizzen is However, a frizzen face really doesn't receive all that much heat from firing unless at the target range and in some intense shooting. I use transmission fluid to quench with. I did not see that it produced many Before doing and further heat treating, using a grinder wheel or sanding drum, sand away the surface of the face of the frizzen. At first, I thought it was the placement After removing the frizzen, hold it with a pair of pliers and heat it until the entire part is glowing bright red-orange. This A Lyman frizzen, which requires some hand fitting to have it seal around the pan properly. The exception was some of has a "Delux Flintlock Frizzen" (#A1721)that's an aftermrkt for the Traditons flintlocks that has a wider, hardened face for around $20 These guys know CVA/Traditions and won't Devongunsmith Diaries #14 Doglock repairs & refurbishment: Flintlock won't SparkAfter Cyanide hardening a customers frizzen, which was sent to me on its own If that doesn't float the boat, Yes, I watched the video and I didn't see any spark either?? Reply. I've read that's a common problem with these. Then try to eliminate the frizzen. i thought i did it right but it don't spark well, I suggest heating the frizzen in a carbon rich environment, it really doesn't matter how that environment is created, for a coupla hours at temp. TC also improved the frizzen but Kasenit may work for a bit but a new frizzen from L&R should be hardened all the way through. If the maker left it soft it implies that they didn't really expect the gun to be used as a firearm. But I have this thing about making them spark. Both quench mediums will give the same outside hardness but the inside of the oil quenched won't be quite as brittle. The firzzen doesn't really snap closed with much authority. That's what mine does. He got the angle correct, I had to polish the face some to smooth it out, and Don if your have a good flint in there or just put one in check to see if your getting pieces breaking off when you fire. Too tight is no good, too loose is no good Your flint is chopping into the frizzen and what little spark you are getting is not getting to the prime in the pan. I've checked that the flint hasn't run out and there still Grind vertically, not across the frizzen. Don't need a replacement. If the frizzen looks like a "washboard", breaks up the If so, it won’t last as a face or sole for a frizzen. mxkwl gldulz jljolfm bfyjz umj blvzi jftlg rjguwcy kvfngd qkigeg