Climbing sling reddit.

Climbing sling reddit same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. Dyneema has very little stretch and falling with a dyneema sling attached to an anchor can generate a massive amount of force, sometimes enough to break the sling. 3-3+10ish slings) the weight of the harness makes it slide down my body since my hips aren't prominent enough to keep it up. If you use two similar slings it's can be up to 80% strength. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. Water knots are large and annoying and tend to catch a lot more than the overlap for sewn slings. Either way I think half my climbing gear is Mammut ropes and slings. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. and shorter) are a tweener size that wouldn't be used often; some climbers use them for tying off pitons. Sport draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. Is the quad preferable because the cordette is doubled up so there is redundancy if one strand breaks? Theoretically, one can also double up on slings (both slings to both anchors, still with 4 carabiners) and achieve the same thing? Yeah, this is probably the best way. Snag a set of trango or dmm offsets and that should cover you for most nut placements you'll run into I had the slings on a few of my older cams replaced recently. For years the main material in climbing slings has been nylon. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. There are various things people use slings for in this arena, the most common being: "The other most important thing is that the sling should be minimalistic, comfortable and full strength so that you’ll always have one last shoulder length sling to whip out if you run out of runners to extend a crucial piece, or if you arrive at the anchor with nothing and you need something to clip in with. There have been zero situations in my climbing career where I found myself wishing for the extendable sling feature. For that price, you could just buy a few extra dynex slings to replace your worn out ones. I am a new recreational climber climbing MRS. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Keep slack out of your static anchors. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. . You can play around with the climbing force calculator here . Those slings aren’t nearly long enough to reduce angles enough. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. I have used cordalette as a generic term for cord, but I can see the difference. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Whether that's just public perception or their marketing focus or both, I dunno. I always carry prussik cord with me when climbing outdoors, because I like the option to go hands free on rappel, and have anchor building material. Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. So slings threaded through so called hour-glasses or knots, jammed into crevices are fine. I had a retired Misty Mountain Cadillac, so my buddy and I turned it into a gear sling for aid climbing. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). Holidays, even Presidents Day, and 3-day weekends like Memorial and Labor tend to be the best blanket sales. Agreed. Tents, tarps, hammocks, stoves… Sewn slings are safer, holding larger forces and don't depend upon the quality of your knot 2)Sewn slings are less clumsy. So you're safely within that range. There's a very specific danger when you shorten it by clipping an inner loop, but as long as you only clip it in a maximum of two spots, it should be safe. com Sep 1, 2023 · Our climbing testers have put these slings to the test on giant alpine routes in the Bugaboos, huge classic multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks, and on many fun days on the rocks in between, assessing and rating them along the way for optimal performance. Some climbing circles/regions use terms differently. If the system were frictionless and the top karabiner a perfect pulley, then the impact force on the pro would be exactly double the impact force on the climber. If you must use a sling through a thumb loop, connect it as a BASKET HITCH. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together haha true that, climbing with someone with DIY gear. When my dyneema draws became rather fuzzy from use my partners started complaining about them & I replaced them with nylon. The extension is marginal, nothing an alpine draw can't do better. I bought a handful of these to temporarily replace some sus cam slings. Also you can get by using an Ikea blue bag for $1 instead of a $40 rope bag. Seems like people don't like one sling with a sliding x. I've recently acquired some 10 to 15-year-old climbing slings and quickdraws. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Thanks in advance, everyone. It's time to retire some of my climbing gear. 5 can vary from 0. I just put my shoes and chalk bag in their own ditty bag now so I don’t get the smell or chalk everywhere regardless of bag I use. Members Online • Gunny-Guy I also have like 8 fat slings (18-25mm) and hardly use them. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. What confuses me is that the image shown clearly says that using a locker on a figer-8 on a bite into the belay loop isn't safe, but that how you would want it in certain situations, since it would be no different that catching a climber while belaying. We are climbing on the bottom chord of the truss, and the top chord is a round tube that can be wrapped with a tape sling--I think that's the pick off point we'd choose for rescue. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Sorry in advance, but I don't have any videos to link at short notice. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. We went all out. I really love their color scheme but my understanding is that I should probably replace the slings since the general consensus is to replace soft goods every 5-10 years. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Aer Sling Bag 3? Has a separate shoe compartment. g. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. 17cm slings are nicer imo. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. March is one of the best "month long" sale times (and creeping a bit into April). Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. You usually need no more than 1 or 2. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Sling Materials. The weight of multiple climbing-quality biner can add up quickly. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. Not sure what you need the slings, prussik, and locking biners for if you are just sport climbing. They will take falls just fine as long as it’s part of a system with dynamic rope . but imo, should not be used to clip in for safety on a multipitch. but on the whole is a very good brand, just gotta check if the specific piece is fit for your purpose. 5kg (which felt easy to begin with) and now use 10kg with ease and without discomfort. The D:d ratio comments above are valid, but are usually spoken about in terms of wire rope. Even though most of the climbing I do is mostly crack climbing and therefore I rely heavily on cams, I still carry quickdraws. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. If you accidentally shock load this gear (factor 1 fall), the adjust has the stretch to not wreck you whereas you will generate a great deal of impact force using the PAS. Apr 29, 2017 · If you mark the tag rather than the sling it's self then you'll have piece of mind. I want to be able to use it for read in the future but also use it for tying off and cleaning lead routes. I carry 4 alpines (Ya it's different) and slings over my shoulder for cams. I know finger strength won't help me get better at climbing, but I think that doing a bit of hangboard will still be better than nothing related to climbing during these three weeks, IF I dont injure myself but i'll look into it in details to avoid injury, as I know these are really People build anchors with slings on multipitches where the sling can potentially take even factor 2 falls and are rated to a minimum of 22 kN. Those two, non-detachable low speed quads are the best season pass you'll ever own. For a PAS, I highly recommend Petzl's Connect Adjust. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. If your other option is a water knot tied sling, that has 60% strength. They also give you an easy way to transfer gear back and fourth. Those cam placements are surely jankier than the huge trees next to them. Metolius cleaned, lubed and added new slings for $5/cam. These spell it out perfectly. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' In a ferrata usually the cable is attached to the wall every 3 meters. A rope doesn't move while rapping. WD-40, lube, alcohol solvents/spirits, petrol, Teflon sprays, degreaser all have no real effect on climbing soft goods. I now have no pain when climbing or pressing on the pulley directly, so there's been an improvement. BD merely used what nylon they had in stock that wasn’t “too outdated” for $10/cam. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be Looking at purchasing slings to make my own alpine/extendable draws. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. For trad, however, much lighter draws work better—featherweight biners on thin, supple slings to reduce bulk and weight and provide a more flexible attachment to nuts (think Black Diamond Oz). Advertisement Coins. Replacing it with your own tied sling will weaken the thumb loop in a fall, potentially kinking or breaking the thumb loop. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. I'm on the hype train, and I'm excited to start using overcoming isometrics and left-side/right-side protocols for a lot more training. A longer Prusik sling can come in handy in self rescue: tying load release knots, cut up for rap tat, etc. These are not rated for climbing. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. It's not at all surprising to see the load decrease significantly throughout the rep and set. As I am new to this, just seeking advice in regards to which width is better suited for draws. 0 coins. 135K subscribers in the myog community. You Reddit's OG off-piste sub for all things backcountry skiing/splitboarding. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. I had picked up some older draws that have mainly Black Diamond biners and Petzl slings but they're pretty old. And yes we are scared of falling. Slings, especially dyneema can get worn quite fast. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. I don't think there's likely to be any issue with the tape adhesive and the sling material though - folk have been taping slings and ropes for years with no incidents. The one caveat is that if you spray your ropes or slings, the wet/sticky may attract dirt which will work it's way into the fabric. Since then I've been doing 5 sets of 25secs on each hand, front 3 open hand, as my warm up on my bi-weekly climbing sessions. I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. That means 3 meters between bolts to stop your fall. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. I've never bought a sling before and I wanted some expert input on the matter. I am using a webbing sling loop in a basket (pic attached) to move the ascender far enough away from my body that I can use the tail of the rope to body thrust up the line (and auto tend slack). If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. 12c-ish plateau. Using nylon webbing or sewn slings does offer a bit of savings compared to dynex or spectra, but the bulk kills that for me. If you're sport climbing, in most cases there'll be two bolts, or chains or something - you can (usually) clip a quickdraw to each, and then Climbing slings and carabiners rated for 15-20kN. girth hitching loses minimum of 50% of sling strength (when used on a biner, when used on something skinner, like a thumb loop of a cam, it will lose even more strength). and the petzl spirit express is the best, but the black diamond This isn't a "you will immediately die" type of thing, and also differs by area you climb in. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. Climbing slings use pound force ratings as climbers are generally using these slings in dynamic (non-static) systems. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. Ropes are designed so that the energy from an average dynamic fall is reduced to less than 10kN. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. The webbing linked here is unofficially rated to 2700lbs, whereas the 8mm dyneema slings are UIAA certified to about 5,000lbs of force. I started climbing before the dedicated PAS gizmos (loops sewn together) became a thing, and people used their daisy chains all the time for single pitch, instead of fiddling with slings. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. 8. I have pretty much all of the rest of the gear for sport climbing though. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. All the binding and slings are purely nylon-based, which won't be affected by having gone through the washing machine once less than a butt-load of times. The Tindeq allows you to measure maximum voluntary contraction at each given time, whereas with weight on a loading pin or sling you're limited to the MVC of the last second of the last rep. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. Some people use a term, get corrected, but can't shake the habit. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. With this paycheck I’m going to buy some rope and bits to make anchors. No real reason, just the nylon slings were really cheap & the weight and bulkiness doesn't bother me (except if you use them with those small ultra-light 'biners but I hate those things These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. Its a privately owned chunk of land that is fully open to climbers. Depends on your local climbing area. If it was rope, there could be a concern after the 10th time or something but you would notice it stiffening up before it became a concern. I've been using the… Yes thats what I kinda understood from reading in the sub, but I will only be able to climb 1 week every month. Most people I know use a sling or two to clip into the anchor setup. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. absolute and unwavering in their "knowledge" gained from 2 years of climbing in the gym. Yeah, just put an overhand knot in the sling. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. Alpines are only for nuts and although It happens I hate extending them because putting them back, I think is a pain. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. A full setup for JUST sport climbing, where everything is bolted is as follows: harness, rope, full rack, belay device, a PAS of some sort, and an anchor build with the slings and biners. I started with 4 which in most cases was enough, I was using extendable only when needed and using my sport draw for when I needed no extension. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Sounds complicated, and like you carry too many alpines. I use a sling in general since if I'm climbing with a standard Yosemite rack (nuts+doubles . Anchor question-single sling with a figure 8, or single sling with I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. If you want to be able to untie it easily, but a carabiner through the knot before you cinch it right and leave it there. I know the responsible thing is to destroy the gear to make sure nobody ever uses it, but it feels super wasteful! I already made a nice rope doormat a few years back, and slings/or anything loop shaped can be used to organise quickdraws, biners etc. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) Personally I would put the main beams up, and use slings on branches then just sling, or even bolt the beam, not the tree, ideally you want a releasable system on a ground anchor with A tied off Munter hitch for a releasable srt system, but I would say someone you know will know someone who knows how to set up rigging. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. It isn't the strength, it's the fact that you will have more friction and rubbing with the loose pieces. I've only been slacking since last Sunday, and only had to buy webbing because I already had the rest of the gear from climbing. It does not have a thumb loop, rather just a metal ring through which the sling goes. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. com but the gist of it is: Absolutely no metal gear allowed on the rock, only textiles. The purpose of the sling is to be kind of all around. Nylon stays strong longer and doesn't slip as much when used in a girth or clove hitch. But once i invested in a hope & plum sling, the ease with which i could work their softer fabric with my baby in the sling made a world of difference— my first h&p was one of their hemp/cotton blends, the fabric they’re most known for (mine was a pattern called “fête”) and my 3rd one was one of their more lightweight linen & cotton I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. " I’ve been climbing since February and am a v4/v5 climber but I also am a pretty big gym rat and lift 3-4 times a week and have a a powerlifting background (which I’ve given up really since I started climbing). For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. May 26, 2020 · Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. Join our community to learn and share how you make your own gear (MYOG). For Multi-pitch. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. What is going completely over your head is that the force on the pro and the force on the climber are directly proportional. Tubular nylon has a smaller tensile strength than dynema, so sewn runners have the potential to be much easier to handle/lighter. See full list on outdoorgearlab. I have a peg board for storage at home as well. Good luck! Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. In the history of modern climbing gear have there been any cases of accidents caused by the failure of a sling which passed a visual inspection and was not cut by a sharp edge? I see 60cm dynex slings for $7, and these slings for $11. Reply Cams, TriCams & stoppers on carabiners clipped to a shoulder gear sling hanging from a hook in a rafter. Like Van Wilder said, the redundancy you are looking for is in the protection on the wall. 3 to 0. Alpine draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. Hi there, I recently acquired some fourth generation BD camalots such as in the photo below (fourth cam from the left). I started at 2. Imo they are too long for standard Alpine draws. Tie off one tree, set your masterpoint (hanging the climbing rope from the masterpoint for weight helps), adjust the static rope leg to the second tree using a tensionless anchor or a sling around the tree and a clove hitch on a locking carabiner. This will keep the sling full strength and provide extra protection at the thumb Use the 14-20L summit packs that several companies (Outdoor Research, BD, Petzl etc) sell. Rated to 32kn so even when girth hitched to the thumb loop they’re still super good enough. rebel, ozone, top gun) and slings at fair prices, haven't tried out their biners and crashpads yet edelrid (germany): great ropes and quickdraws chillaz (austria): cool clothes for climbing and bouldering 49 votes, 13 comments. 5/1 = fall factor 5 Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. Considering this gear has never been used and has been stored properly, is it safe to use? Upon visual inspection, they appear brand new with absolutely no signs of fraying, fluffing or wear. I want it to be longer so I can use the rope for occasional outdoor climbing as well. Just don't load them dynamically. The issue isn't safety - your party will all will be fine, and if someone else comes along, well, imo they should be able to figure out what happened and not reuse it. If you have other suggestions I am open Think I'm the only one that's gone back to nylon. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. Will deploy… I’m looking to mark my quickdraws, biners, slings, and particularly my rope. Same as before More slings not a great idea. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. While it is nice that a lot of the Master Cams fit in between the C4 sizes, I've found it difficult to get good at remembering which will be the If you want to know more about the ethics involved in climbing in the birthplace of free climbing, there is a good write-up on thecrag. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. Realized when I got home that I was taught to not tie knots in a dyneema sling. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. minimum 8 alpine draws (60 cm Dyneema slings paired with two lightweight wiregate biners) Trango phase sets are the cheapest or find cheap wires and Dyneema slings at some gear shops and you're set. The other feature is the ability to hold factor 1 falls. My slings all have one carabiner and I use cams racking biner for the other side. If your lanyard is 1 meter long and you fall 1 meter above the last bolt, that means a 5 meter fall. In nylon slings, the diameter of the nylon fibres inside the sling is tiny, so you can get away with much sharper bends, like shackle pins etc. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. is that a standard climbing knot on the black sling? I've added my own SAFE/UNSAFE/MAYBE classifications to each setup. Various companies do rope friendly inks - I use beal's to mark up ropes etc as well. Read on for the best recommendations. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. What kind of cams? Some can be reslung yourself, others are better done professionally. What is better static rope? Or slings? I was going to buy 2x 120cm slings and maybe like 6m of static rope for when I need a bit more? Is 6m enough? Should I buy more? Or 2 lots of static rope? Longer slings? More selection? Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. Pad the tree and use it as a monolith. From what I've read, soft climbing gear can deteriorate over time. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. For example current and previous generation BD cams with the thumb loops have a special tripled up sewn sling. Shorter slings (30cm/12 in. 1. I learned on a Blake's hitch, moved the Blake's to a split tail and recently got my hands on a Zigzag. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Personally, I find the feature to be useless. I would not reccomend multi-loop slings at all. It does when you pull it. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. I've seen this done before with people cutting off the leg loops and just using the waist belt as an over the shoulder sling. Keep in mind that the PAS and dynex slings you mentioned are made out of material that has very little to no stretch. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. In the United States, static anchor material (nylon slings, dyneema slings, Metolius PAS) are very common, people use them, and are fine. These slings can definitely take the full load of a falling climbing, and can be reused many, many times! Nope, it doesn't matter really at all. Mammut is a high quality brand and their gear is good, i find some features aren't well thought out, a glaring example being the bum zips on the bibs being a multi step operation to open and close and not possible in a harness. Summit packs are made to sit up high on your back so that you can get to gear on the back of your harness easily. Friction generated by a moving rope is what weakens the sling. 3 of my friends and I all have the same mammut infinity rope. The difference in service between Metolius and BD is huge. Shoes piled up in a wire basket. The difficulty is that I live in Japan and getting ropes is pretty difficult. Love their stuff. So it's not ridiculous deadly. And its considered the center of Red River Gorge climbing (anytime a local gives you directions to a crag, odds are the route starts at Miguel's). rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. But the point is that the range doesn't matter much because climbing isn't about static loads, it's about dynamic loads during falls. I want this to be a training rope that I can just work the crap out of at the gym for the most part. Dyneema slings are great for setting up anchors, slinging things for protection etc. UNSAFE yikes, anchored to a small shrub and a dug up root. The metal s-biners are too heavy for what they do. I think swapping the adjust for a grillon would set me down a few inches lower in itself, and when we're hanging panels over head it really pays to be in just the The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. Wanted to see if anybody has had this injury and what my timeline for recovery looks like as I’m pretty bummed out. Re-racking them is an extra step that can take a second or two, and is also a pain in the ass for the follower. The home of Climbing on reddit. A sling, (Typically a dynamic sling such as Beal Dynaclip or a homemade one) 3 Locking carabinners Belay/Rappel device 2 prussick's slings one "Maillon Rapide" to be lowered on a bolt in case I don't send the climb and there's nobody stronger around. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. Please let me know what you think! These anchors were all found in a single afternoon. 13 votes, 55 comments. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). I augment my kit with Nitize plastic s-biner #4 (25lbs) and #2. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. The loops keep the gear spread out. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. Just starting outdoor climbing. I use both lengths. Nylon slings are a bit heavier, but having to rack 10 of those would be a massive pain. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. I also use the slings for trad anchors but most people aren't into building trad anchors with slings, so they might be single purpose for you. Because the space between them was pretty large and my 120cm sling (or double length I heard is called) was creating a larger angle (about 60) I decided to use 2 120 slings. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. The slings doubled up are stronger yes. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. Mar 13, 2024 · For sport climbing, you want full-size, wear-resistant biners on stiff, beefy slings (think Petzl Express or Trango Smooth draw). Another option would be to use 2 120cm slings or a whole loop of old-ish climbing rope. The bolts were a bit off to one another and to properly pre-equalize the system I used an overhand knot to slightly shorten one of the slings. Yes! They do a great job with this, and it doesn't cost a lot of money. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. I'm also assuming you're talking about polyester round slings, rather than climbing slings? Yes. Apr 25, 2012 · Gear Slings are nice because you can throw the rack behind you when you are climbing, keeping all of the gear out of the way. Since I had the scale out I decided to weigh my sport draws. It weakens the sling, but it's still plenty strong. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. I used to use a variety of the above, until I went climbing in Europe. As others have said. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. When I started trad climbing I simply bought 60cm dyneema sling and converted my sport quickdraw into extendable. One very big plus of having an equalized point is that it will eliminate or atleast reduce the master point sliding back and forth caused by the climber climbing sidways. ). What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. I am looking for a 60m rope mostly for indoor climbing. e. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I’ve been using an REI Travel Stuff Tote with a separate shoulder strap to wea Just don't go climbing over it full length, and falling directly on it (although it could probably take that). Swapping leads means I'm climbing with one of my buddies I'm dialed with and know they understand assessing anchors but when climbing where I'm leading others the shelf is usually just my personal anchor point to allow my second to have all the master point they need without worrying about creating a cluster before I'm off again. My usual standard rack for a single, decent length pitch I know little about includes 4-8 quickdraws in addition to maybe 4 alpine draws. Belay device, cordelette, nut tool stay on my harness. As far as climbing, if you're new climbers, I'd suggest staying in Muir Valley. The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. The minis are too small for anything, other than zipper locksbut as zipper locks, the minis/lockable minis are great. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. And yes, I have a single set of Black Diamond Camalot C4's to size #4 and a full set of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. One short one for a 3rd hand when rappelling and a long length doubled around my waist as a chalk bag belt. Or two singles. Read “Climbing Anchors” by John long. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. In most cases, when people are talking about tying in with the rope as opposed to a PAS, it's when tying into an anchor for multipitch climbing. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. OP-- "sling" is the general term for shorter ropes (say 25' and under), while "hanks" refer to longer lengths (say, 50'+) Saying you need "slings" is more precise than saying "you need ropes", but not a whole lot more. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. Do not try to make your own slings unless you have an industrial bartacking machine and tubular nylon webbing that is rated. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. Quickdraw slings are presewn slings that let you make your own 'draws by adding the carabiners you choose. You’ll figure it out, you just need a better understanding of the basics. I've never seen a sling bag while out climbing multi p and it strikes me as a poor choice. I think they're just known more for equipment and hard-goods than your usual softgood focused brands (TNF, Patagonia, Marmot, etc. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. the knot might snag. ) Get a 100ft static 8mm line. Its heavily developed with 20-some excellent sport Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. rock pillars/ocun (czech republic): really good shoes (eg. This isn't something to make yourself unfortunately. What’s the… I included a sewn nylon and hand tied draw as I have seen both in the wild. hvrv zqye luctz pim avjpvf fvxq afwz bsldaz pbnvl xuy tddxt zorp tftmks dfg hmwwsm