Sport vs trad climbing reddit.

Sport vs trad climbing reddit Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. I also am a huge fan of their cordlette which has proved smoother and lighter than any other brands I have used. Sport climbing relies solely on bolts or other permanent hardware. Some gyms rate TR and lead climbs differently, this is a mistake. Even then, I prefer a draw that's flexible. Would you guys say the grades of sport and trad routes at RR are pretty on par, or should I drop down a couple grades for trad? Edit: did a 5. 3 z4s. Curious what folks use and are happy with. All that matters is if you're having a good time or not, unless you're climbing 5. How hard a given grade feels to an individual varies so much depending on factors like where you are, if its sport/trad, how comfortable you are with the style of climbing of that particular pitch, if you are climbing it 1500' off the ground in the middle of el cap, if the route was given its grade in 1964 vs. I've rappelled off mid route on a few occasions. In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. Last week-end, I went trad climbing with a 40l pack. But, there's also sampling bias. 12 or harder on gear, there is no reason to spend $200 on climbing shoes with the exception of TC pros which are worth it if you climb enough to resole em once per year. I tend to push my physical limits harder on bolts because trad has definitely eliminated any lead-head fears on sport. Long answer: In terms of features, yes. make those loops and you have plenty of cord for anchors. I have heard that I would love the Up Mocc's and then also that the TC Pro is the end all be all of trad shoes. I'm thinking about getting TC Pros and want to climb with socks. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. Jul 5, 2020 · I don't see an advantage for sports draws vs alpines. I climb trad so I value the large gear loops and even the small rear loop (on the AR-385a). Likely hanging some TR as well and harder multipitch. So get this straight with your partner before climbing. sport climbing is that the latter is a bit more focused on the physical climb, whereas trad climbing asks you to be more mentally prepared, using technical climbing skills and more. Plus you have easy quads for when you do sport climbing multipitches 2 lightweight lockers for each cordalette strand ATC paired with two round stock lockers Most people in the UK find that their sport and trad grades don't match this table at all, but the authors are probably technically correct that the technical grades are about right. 2004, etc. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag sport climbing shoe: instinct VS trad shoe: i have astromans (like them) but i would get TC pros if they were cheap. Its my only harness so I use it for everything, gym TR, Sport, and Trad. 10+/5. Same is true for older style single axle cams. Sport draws tend to be burlier, heavier, and have thicker, and often times shorter, dogbones. ) If you look at the source article for “climbing in the Tetons” it doesn’t differentiate between tourist “mountaineering” and technical climbing, which basically makes it worth jack shit as representative risk data to climbing as a sport. 8. If no: go for an all-around option. What happens when you challenge pro sport climbers and IFSC athletes to go Trad climbing? Let's just say they are a little out of their comfort zoneSport For context, I love sport climbing, and mixed trad/bolted lines where additional protection is needed. Sport climbing, and bouldering to an extent, are challenged when it comes to non-climbing spectators. Adding some sport climbing and especially bouldering into your mix will seriously benefit your trad ability (unless you get hooked on the dark side completely However, it is not very comfortable and my strap broke after around 6 months of use. Here is how I learned trad climbing after sports climbing for years: When I first started, I had been sports climbing at a 5. I personally think totems are worth every penny and they make me feel like I’m not gonna die. 1-. And you did not have some arbitrary grade you had to be able to climb before even thinking about climbing What pair of climbing shoes doesn’t hurt you too much to wear around the base of the crag, yet is technical enough to have you sticking every smear like gum and finessing every infinitesimally small toe hold? What pair of shoes would you wear as bed time slippers AND on a multi-pitch trad route? Trad climbing is THE way to experience the vertical wilderness in the most unobtrusive way and with the least negative impact. trad routes in my area. 15 sport, 5. What do you mean by all rounders? It seems that the definition is changing. Something between 9. Oct 27, 2020 · Trad is more dangerous than sport. Metolius is an excellent company for specific things. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. Not the highest volume heel but a great all-around shoe. The home of Climbing on reddit. agressive shoe: shamans or solutions if they fit me Reply They are the most comfortable shoe I've worn and perfect for sub 5. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? Maybe the community can help me out on a question I have on trad vs sport climbing and the definition of a “true send” In trad climbing you need to… Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. Sport climbing absolutely helped my trad abilities, and my recent shift to bouldering more has made an even bigger difference. To save time, it’s important that partners learn to work as a team. Trying a 5. The main difference between the two is that in trad climbing, you place your own gear (such as cams and nuts) into cracks and spaces in the rock to hold your rope, thus establishing the route as you climb. Hey mate don't be hard on yourself, actually it is really common for former boulderers who switch to sport climbing that they're underperforming a lot. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). And I much prefer having a 70m to a 60m rope at the gunks. It used to mean multi-pitch, single-pitch, trad, sport, bouldering, gym, etc. 14 trad, or v16 boulders then OG ethics don't really matter imo On gear you gotta carry it up place it right and move on, that's a big part of the climbing, recognize that as well I've been using shoes widely considered a multi-pitch trad shoe for everything for years. I'm assuming limited rack so one sling per cam. Quite a narrow article, no mention of 2 ropes helping with rope drag etc. Or concerned about weight because you're climbing 5. Safety-wise, the big danger comes from miscommunication. I’ve been climbing about 5 years (trad for 5, sport for 3), and I climb up to 5. Because you're protecting with gear placements, usually you're climbing easier stuff than if you were doing a sport route. Of course "clean climbing" is often not 100% clean (flakes are pulled off, rap stations are sometimes bolted, cams can scar the rock, etc. It was a cold and windy January in Joshua Tree, my partner and I both had no experience trad climbing, but a good amount of sport under our belt. 5) Classic. I am doing sport and alpine multipitch and so far I had a single rope for sport (light, belay with grigri, easy handling rope management) and half ropes for alpine (for long abseils, extra safesty e. Otherwise, it's just like any other trad climb, albeit with slightly more route finding, slightly more vegetation, slightly colder, and more exhausting due to the elevation. Mar 21, 2022 · Trad climbing, or traditional climbing, and sport climbing are both types of free climbing. Just whatever you prefer to clip. Sport climbers want to push their bodies hard, absolutely minimize risk and sort of sterilize the unpredictable nature of climbing that trad climbers crave. The main difference between trad climbing vs. To give blanket advice to use the most stretchy rope for all trad climbing is just wrong. Or wearing it over lots of layers while ice climbing. Same loops, same padding. I thought I was getting on Buissonier 5. Jun 13, 2021 · It wasn’t until sport climbing became popular that trad climbing became the older style of climbing. The gear wall is nice when trying to plan out a trip because I can lay everything out and visually organize without bending over. Posted by u/AutoModerator - 5 votes and 103 comments May 29, 2020 · Trad Climbing vs. 2 21 foot strands of 6mm cordalette (buy from IME in SLC or Mountainworks in Provo). Right now I have been sport climbing and now how to lead and clean routes, and soon will get into 2-3 pitch of sport only climbing. The harness becomes a lot more important when you're going to be wearing it all day, loading it down with 15lbs of trad gear, and doing hanging belays in it. 20+ pitches of soft sport. For most of trad climbing bailing is easier than sport! You just aid through the hard moves. 12. Sport climbing is man modifying nature to conform to his skill and his will to drill. 10 trad climbing. And you can maybe even play around with the woman vs man versions regarding how stiff you like it. 4-4, with . Logistics play a huge part! If you have experience with trad climbing, it will certainly be easier, but you really have to study the ideas and techniques behind how everything works. It wouldn't surprise me if they were easier for sport climbing specialists than a lot of 5. That is basically trad Vs. 4. 5-9. There was this really iconic 12c/7b+ which I wanted to do. 20 votes, 15 comments. ). Whatever I have on hand for outside TR or single pitch trad. On the flipside, most people that I know that began sport climbing end up never really making it past this It absolutely works. Perfect for trad. Old bail cord, sport vs trad days will change what’s on the wall. I think rappelling is funner and a more satisfying end to my climbing. Some have adjustable legs and some don’t. Start now. 9, and boulder at V3 with the occasional V4. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. If you are single pitch climbing, it's probably fine, but multipitch climbing with a full double rack, draws, anchor material, atc/grigri, and water bottle/packable jacket gets really tight without a lot of gear loop space. The intended use is for single pitch trad and sport climbing, at the project level. 123 votes, 87 comments. Honestly, I know a few old trad climbers who haven't climbed in years and haven't followed modern climbing at all. A 20l is plenty for sport climbing, multipitch and a lunch. On sport routes, it doesn't matter if you flail all day on the bolts of that 5. My first day climbing in it was in a chimney crawl climb haha I've been climbing in a BD momentum for a little over two years now. GriGri for sport and gym. It's fine though because I kept it simple and did not highlighted some counter arguments like what setters have to keep in mind while setting competition routes like difficulty, safety for joints and maybe a little entertainment for climbers and audience. Of course it's much more complicated than that but you get the idea. However, bolting trad lines where good protection is available does degrade the style. It's a shame that climbing has gotten as popular as it has. From the abstract, emphasis added: Overall, climbing sports had a lower injury incidence and severity score than many popular sports, including basketball, sailing or soccer; indoor climbing ranked the lowest in terms of injuries of all sports assessed. I'd suggest that trad accidents are more often reported than sport accidents: Trad climbers tend to be more experienced. Leader belays follower with an ATC-Guide or Reverso. 3). 4, they were super easy, I think I’ve got my bearing for difficulty. 2 extra trad draws for nuts. I myself started out only bouldering up to V11/8A before I got more interested in sport climbing. When free climbing trad routes , you must use special devices for removable protection as opposed to permanently placed hardware. For a route to be considered "R" at the Gunks it typically requires for the runout to be at the grade of the route. In the gym, I like to have a performance oriented shoe that's just barely comfortable enough, but gives me the performance I want while climbing. Stretching for a clip on a sport climb. Different climbing disciples are sprenading apart from each other more and more (not a bad thing). In sport climbing, the primary objective is athletic - doing hard moves, getting a redpoint, etc. It’s got the cut resistance of 10mm+. Nuts needs a draw anyways, but then I wouldn't place a sport draw on nuts. From a trad climbing perspective: sport climbing takes most of the commitment, boldness, and mechanical skill out of climbing, reducing it to, well, a sport: a finger-tendon-and-knee-ligament workout like weightlifting but in the forest and with more grunting. Have fun and be safe my dude. While climbing trad, you're probably looking for more all day comfort than max performance for an onsight. Nowadays, gym culture has taken over and some people seem to have narrowed it down to different types of gym climbing, or indoor/outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. 12a. It sits really nicely on my hips and is easy to adjust. Either way, I agree. 3 and 5. Usually get a couple hundred pitches of trad in each year. The rope and helmet were outside. Most trad climbing is not particularly sustain or pumpy if you can recover off a full pad edge and some okay feet. Maybe good for harder stuff too but I'm a wimp when it comes to climbing on gear. Totems flexible stems are also favorable for horizontal cracks (gunks) vs semi rigid stems such as c4s or friends. 10 trad and 5. My trad RP is actually higher than my sport (13a vs 12d). However it's clear that alpines are more versatile. I have both and love my old TCs but have had severe toe nail Issues since before even begin gon climbing and climbing made it much worse. We did a lot of top roping together throughout my childhood and sport climbing as we got older, but I've never seen him trad climb. Sport Climbing. 7 and 5. 9. I’ve taken some decently long (for the gym at least) falls and he’s never really come close to hitting the first bolt. I started with trad in 1972. Big wall climbing is a science and an art. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. Bouldering won't help until you're in the 5. Trad gear (placing, bouncing, falling) absolutely damages sandstone, and other rock to a lesser degree, but it’s only a contention because those cracks are also used for hand/foot placement, whereas in sport climbing the holds aren’t affected by the protection. for multipitch or single pitch trad climbing i use a clove. 10a “R”. I've not seen too many amazing, awesome V0-2 around that aren't slabs. g. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I’ve also had multiple 3000+ feet of climbing days. I didn't know anyone who trad climbed so I enrolled in a two day weekend trad climb course and they taught the basics of placing gear, had you lead some super easy trad. Sport draws are too rigid for use on nut placements and don't help that much on cam placements unless the line you climb is very straight. You'll get a good idea by asking people who are climbing the same routes as you how long they've been climbing. I have a different experience with the post-2018 Adjama: I am right in the sweet spot for the medium size but the gear loops on the left are not symmetrical to the right side and are too far back, the gear loop stitching is loose (lots of reports of people losing their rack of cams on climbs), and hanging comfort is no better or even worse than Petzl's entry-level harness, the Corax. 15ft+ is normally R. when one rope gets a coreshot, reducing rope drag by clipping just one strand etc. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. FWIW I also use the edelrid swift protect pro as my primary trad single and sport climbing rope. Yea the definitions get confusing for me. See full list on climbinghouse. I am now projecting 5. Unless you are climbing 5. Yes, even very strong climbers. Sport or Lead climbing is when you attach your rope, using quick draws, to fixed anchors in the wall as you go up. The commitment level and objective dangers are higher with multi pitch trad (and I include aid climbing here). I primarily engage in sport climbing, and don't have any particular aspirations for doing a great deal of trad or multi-pitch climbing, outside following the occasional romp. Which is why I noted sport vs. The load pulls directly on the lobes rather than the stem, this has many advantages. Sometimes it's actually cheaper to buy sport draws and cannibalize the carabiners. While both forms of climbing have their risks, sport climbing eliminates the variable of placing gear. trad ratings. There simply is not enough rock to sustain us all. I mostly used it for single pitch sport and trad, but took it up a few multi-pitch lines including an unplanned all day affair and had no complaints. As I said before there are many sport routes for people to choose from. As a result, sport climbing makes it easier to focus on pushing physical limits. There were no climbing gyms and sport climbing wasn't invented yet. I don't think it matters strength wise. 13 trad with a quad rack in the same harness i sport climb 5. Personally, I enjoy having a quiver of shoes to choose from, so if I'm sport climbing, I can have a more comfortable, stiffer shoe. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. I’m absolutely not advocating for no bolts. About the sizing I am using a 37. You can narrow the definition as much as you want, but cumulatively, you are taking more risk by climbing on gear. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. The two are mutually exclusive but share common traits. Planning to retire my old Mammut Infinity in the next few months and looking to buy something to replace it. My local trad climbing area is eldo, so I place these things a lot, and I’ve fallen on them plenty. Not the case in trad. 7 C1 if you get shut down. 7, but it took so long to get here that it feels like I’ll never be a 5. Always thought 7mm was standard. 11c PG is a good example - though this isnt to be taken lightly since it was the scene of a fatal accident a few years back). If it helps for determining common practices, I believe the climbing video I am referencing was shot somewhere in the UK. com Feb 25, 2021 · The biggest difference between sport climbing and trad climbing is protection. LEAVE NO TRACE. The hard 5. The obvious example is speed climbing, but between bouldering and sport climbing (lead and top) the gap has increased the last years due to the modern style of setting. moccs for pure crack maybe. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. I'm sure having more shoes can be nice, but definitely not required. Can’t recommend it highly enough. So long as you don't decide that because you're a 6b sport climber you should find trad E2 ok I've been sport climbing for a while and am looking to transition to trad. Get ~12cm long draws, that are 12-14mm thick (this is the sweet spot for weight and price). Which I do see myself headed into. Apr 4, 2025 · Although it's designed primarily for sport climbing, it's also a solid choice for trad climbing, thanks to the wide, rigid front gear loops and large, easy-to-access rear gear loops, which give you plenty of room for storing all of the long route necessities. I'm considering buying a new harness and my question is there generally a noticeable difference in Sport-vs-Trad-vs-Alpine harnesses? Climbing very obviously means different things to different people, and just like there is a difference between mountaineering and climbing, there’s a difference between climbing for the exposure / risk, and climbing for the physical/difficulty asked. Before Climbing Anchors was released I had picked up used copies of older two part series (1990's climbing anchors + more climbing anchors), as I was getting more serious about climbing and trying to get a better handle on knowing what I didn't know. My take is that the dragons are really great for alpine climbing. As well as keylock noses for cleaning the draw off of steep routes. Grades should be created because of the difficulty of the climbing moves and the size/direction/type of hold. 11c sport, gym I feel comfortable on 5. I also have no intention of starting a sport vs trad vs bouldering debate, as the question I'm asking is only really about trad, and I understand rapping or lowering off of fixed anchors/chains on a sport route. Can anyone weigh in on what would be better? He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. 4-4 and a single rack of friends . Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. As has been said they are very different disciplines and few people seem to devote themselves to each equally. There is also trad climbing where you do not use anchors, but put your own gear into the wall. 9 is my hardest trad lead with a 5. Miura: (41. 8R start of Yellow Wall 5. Leading on gear, cleaning a pitch, and re-racking all take longer than they do when sport climbing. Cuts out more than a few raps. I wouldn't wear it bouldering. Sport climbing isn’t it? Frequently used gear usually stays in the pack, infrequently used gear usually stays on the gear wall. Alpine Up to belay the leader on multipitch trad. Unless you’re a hard man attempting an overhanging route in a cave (then your name is probably Ondra) soft vs hard catches don’t really apply to trad climbing so much. 10 trad climber. The C4, Drago I’ve been climbing about 8 years, leading trad consistently for maybe 3. Blue Water makes some of the most inexpensive yet powerful soft gear available. I know my trad climbing friends like wires to keep the total rack weight down. 14 trad lines - at least Bon Voyage & Tribe - don't seem to have much crack on them. when these grades sync up, you know you're climbing at your peak. The dual axle design is largely obsolete, but it's still a proven concept that does the job. If the belayer is thinking 'rappel' and the climber is thinking 'lower', this is where a lot of climbing falls come from. 7 but actually started up Mama Woolsey 5. 14+. I'm headed to Leavenworth with my friend, who is also new to both trad and crack climbing, so we're looking to do the easiest possible routes so we can get solid on gear placements. I read Big-Wall Climbing, by Jared Ogden to get started, and also read lots of material on inte Mar 13, 2024 · For sport and trad, carry at least two different lengths of draws, so you have options if a bolt or gear placement pinches the rope against an edge or leaves a carabiner levering over it. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s Yes, I am talking about the Solution Guide. 11-, trad 5. Start with trad and all the knowledge that comes with it. As far as active equalization, I think you and I have both seen climbers spending time at a belay building a macrame project. 10+ range because the movements are completely different. When I put on my new TCs all day the pressure and pain in toes became in bearable on a trad trip where I just was able to wear my old TCs for the same duration and while uncomfortable it wasn’t unbearable Also been collecting a trad rack for a while and I’m about to purchase the final pieces. For me, after years of only trad climbing and plateauing in the 10's, getting serious about bouldering was key to progressing. I use a reverso because it allows for more options in rescue or bailing situations. This is going by the numbers of ticks on MP on popular sport vs. And I truly wonder if it's his being young and invincible, or if, as this article suggests, "That's kid's amygdala isn't firing. Trad climbing is just sport climbing, with the following caveats: Hanging out to place gear, which can be “modeled” as simply shaking out longer and more often The occasional 30-second long awkward lockoff while you fiddle with gear Fair, but usually what people mean when they talk about "trad" shoes are comfort. He taught us to place gear and he'll clean routes, but I don't think my dad has led a climb since his friends died. I weigh 250 and my climbing partner is 150. 11b/c and hardest redpoint is a 5. Climbers use the term 'climbing' as a catch all, but non-climbers are more likely to be familiar with "rock climbing" (which usually means top roping), and boulders will use rock climbing to mean climbing with a rope to differentiate it from bouldering, although to a newbie it seems like bouldering is also be a form of rock climbing. Trad dads love that natural pro: +10 Looks like that whole flake wants to rip out: -8 Final score: 2/10 would whip Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. 1. IMO, use alpine draws for trad climbing. But, we called it "climbing". If you're already good at elevation, and you are a confident trad climber at the grade of your alpine climb, you'll be fine! I mentioned early on that I was specifically addressing "trad climbing gear anchors" because I thought that someone would immediately apply what I wrote to a two bolt sport anchor. Not sure how TC Pros stretch, I'm unsure about the sizing for all-day wear. The gear loops are tiny compared to my dead bird harness. 8 trad (with a few exceptions), 5. Great for bouldering and steep sport climbing, not so much for long trad pitches. 8kn vs 12. Some opinions about this would be great. It was comfy and has plenty of room to rack gear. A big wall harness is different . Sure if you're climbing tips cracks in sandstone then it could be better, but definitely not if you're placing hand size pieces in granite. I've climbed a couple of easy routes at Index, such as Pisces, Great Northern Slab, Corner Flash, Hag Crack, and Senior Citizens in Space. This is outside the advised weight range but it works totally fine. As far as rule of thumb, figure dropping your TR grade down two grades for leading, 3 grades for trad. Counter to this, the primary objective of trad climbing is adventurous - exploring the rock, flirting with risk, finding the summit. Posted by u/icmason - 7 votes and 12 comments In theory, a trad route of a given grade should be similar in physical difficulty to a sport route of the same grade, but will feel harder because of carrying a cumbersome rack, the knowledge and skill needed place gear effectively - and/or the mental control required when opportunities to place gear aren't as frequent as you might like. As you make the climbing less adventurous (below altitude, sport climbing, indoor, etc) it becomes safer, but rock climbing is a dangerous sport. I use them bouldering, top-roping, sport lead, trad, indoor, outdoor, every kind of rock, every temperature. Hey man, Bouldering is climbing without a rope and you do not climb nearly as high. When I'm trad climbing I may be on 5-8 pitch all-day climb, whilst sport climbing I may get in 5-10 routes (depending if I'm projecting something). The only time I do the single carabiner sling is on alpine climbs and I'll put the sling trad draw style using the racking carabiner directly on the cam. Only thing I wish is that it were the ultralights and zeros throughout since fully l Lead outdoor sport climbing many times (> 20 days out) Hire a guide to teach me multi pitch and trad skills (2 day course) Go on a trad climbing trip with experienced leaders (get on very easy trad, 3-4 grades under your sport level) Start buying gear and repeat step 4. Most in the gunks start at 5. Trad climbing was not some big goal that you had to work up to by a progression of gym > sport > trad. I climb 5. Getting more and more into trad, and I've been doing so with a pair of La Sportiva Solutions, which admittedly, I adore climbing in, but hate having on for multiple pitches or entire days. 10b sport outside when I started getting into trad, then kinda had to start over when learning on gear. Seems to cover nearly all bases. But from everything I've read, there's no graph that you're going to use to predict future ability, there's just too many variables. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). . And I didn't know a lot. Trad climbing IS more than just placing gear in the sense that it is also: understanding the micro and macro structure of the rock, reading for good rests and spots where it is comfortable to place, gear management, very often anchor building, very often crack climbing (jam it up!), and a whole bunch of knowledge about different knots and some other gear. However if you're only climbing well protected splitters at well established crags with a fat rack, then it's essentially sport climbing. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Then we swap devices when swapping leads so whoever is leading is belayed with the Alpine Up. 9- hardest onsite, I feel comfortable on 5. The number of bolts (plus two for the anchor and at least one extra for insurance) will determine how many draws to carry for a sport route, but on trad Crack climbing skills are usually a big separator. I know that everyone thinks it's super dangerous driving a car, but the reality is there are very few deaths per driver when compared to many of the other activities we do. 11 level for a few years. Instead of placing a sport draw, I would just clip the cam direct & not extent it. In the world of mountaineering/alpine climbing steve houses "New alpinism" is good. For 9+/10s (in my case), weight isn't the limiting factor. The beginner climber can really stand in to get more quality this way. I like the wires for clipping, but the solid feels more robust which I guess helps feel more solid. 14. While one racks up or sorts gear, the other can flake or coil the rope. Now I’m comfy to around 5. They’re super light, super flexible and they seem to fit everywhere. I think you’re focusing on the wrong things. 5 which is half a size more than what I size my other LS shoes for sport climbing (for reference I am a 39 or 39. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. Excellent for edging, smedging and with a low toe box profile. I carry about 8-10 at the Gunks. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. and if I'm bouldering steep roofs, I can have a tight, soft shoe. Because trad climbing is more gear intensive than sport climbing, it is also more time-consuming. One reason I use 2 ropes even on short climbs is that if you take a bit of slack to clip in gear and fall then that slack to your last gear makes a potential landing, but if you have 2 ropes the slack doesn't matter as your last gear was (usually) clipped into the other rope which is still tight. Sport climbing is just outdoor gym climbing, I love the gym, I love a good sport crag but I cannot understand how some people just stop there so I guess I have no clue why they're disgusted So, yes, I think the term "clean climbing" could've/should've replaced the term "trad climbing" since most modern trad climbing is clean. Max onsight are both 12b. 5 in approach shoes). Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Got a single rack of c4s . Trad is more of a journey. The rope and helmet needs to be outside the pack. As others have said below, El Cap/Yosemite has bolts at specific points for anchors, but is all trad and aid climbing with the addition of hauling. Get outside and find cracks of all different sizes and learn how to use your feet. 8/5. If yes: buy fat sport draws for sport climbing now and buy lightweight trad gear when you start that up later. Rock fall, difficulty retreating in bad weather, getting benighted, route finding, dangerous run outs, scary descents, and marginal anchors are all issues I've faced trad climbing. I top rope at 5. I was leading up to about 5. This would further obfuscate people's ideas and provide incorrect information. Their meant for aid and sitting all day. More loops, heavier, wider back, upper body on some. Reply Trad and sport harnesses are the exact same. People saying that crack climbing is harder than sport climbing at a given grade generally just aren't good crack climbers. (I'm a dude and know nothing about women's shoes) I have wide feet, use Instincts in my street shoe size for sport climbing (although I might go half a size smaller) and I'm very happy with the Scarpa Vapor Lace for multipitch trad, half a size up from my street shoe size. I'd like to toss this in: When most people start climbing trad, especially if they're climbing in older places, they tend to go much lower than 5. comfortable flashing a 5. A mentor explained to me like this, multi pitch trad in an alpine environment to a summit (glacial approach, snow travel/climbing) is alpine rock, and basically when you add section(s) of water ice or mixed climbing in the route of alpine rock it becomes straight alpine climbing. Extendable slings are great in this setting. 10-15ft is normally PG13. But in the meantime, if you're looking for big-wall sport climbing, you should check out El Potrero Chico in Mexico. Feels like it’s not there when you’re climbing. While it may not be the purest representation of the sport to climbers, it’s how the general public is going to relate and understand the sport (speaking specifically to your comment about the olympics and really climbing growing as a whole). It’s really lightweight and feels that way but it’s super durable. Also ~$100 less right? I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. I'd imagine its more, possibly up to an order-of-magnitude of difference. " I could definitely see them being very surprised at seeing this photo and having a similar reaction to that dude. Your diagrams say that some sport climbing is also trad climbing and some trad climbing is also sport climbing. Until then, BD Momentum is a good default starting point. My draws have solid on top and wire on bottom. 11a/b sport climbing outdoors, hardest redpoint outdoors is a 5. And yes we are scared of falling. I used to predominately climb in Yosemite and the Eastern Sierras. 7/10 since my foot doesn't love it. There's no objective translation between the two, but to be sure, this guy solos far beneath his redpoint ability. ) and I'm guessing that has something to do with why it was never Bouldering is how I get stronger and develop technique for harder sport and trad climbing. Maybe the best. ask yourself whether you are more likely to get hurt hitting a ledge or getting spiked by a hard catch in the type of climbing you are doing if the former get a low stretch/higher impact rope like a maxim or mammut if the latter get a higher stretch/lower impact rope such as beal also remember that for TRing lower stretch may be When climbing trad, not getting in over your head is much more important. My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. 2 equivalent (black) and use metolius ultralight master cams for the smaller sizes 0 and 00. As skiiers like to say, run what you brung. It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. According to the charts I have seen this all lines up (the trad downgrade being a purely fear thing which I’m working on). I would wear this one for multi pitches. Nothing wrong with some training weight as well! Happy climbing! That said, if you really want a stiff pair of shoes for long multipitches, boreal makes some good quality stiff shoes at a competitive pricepoint. Sport climbing is approached like one might approach tennis. And therefore more into the I don't think you understand how Venn diagrams work. 13 crack pitches would be. I wouldn't bet against Ondra on something like Stranger Than Fiction though. Short answer: No, in terms of functionality, you can use any draws for sport climbing or trad climbing. Most situations it’s just a catch, don’t overthink it. Anything else usually gets a brief mention in the guidebook (5. Hi, my half ropes' lifespan comes to an end soon and I m looking at new options. That said, the Vapors seem to be a bit more narrow than the Instincts, but they are still great for my feet. 12a max, sport lead 5. only single pitch sport is where i’ll bust out a 120cm nylon sling as a PAS to clean anchors. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. I like them fine in sport climbing as well, but the comfort fit makes them iffy when it comes to highly-ambiguous limestone footholds, so if next year I'll find myself sport climbing on limestone a lot, I'll probably buy something slightly more aggressive (but only slightly, since there's still little limestone where I am) and on a smaller size. I've done a good amount of sport climbing that is essentially 80% awesome V0-2, then some cruxes. " (Link to journal article. If I can do 10-15 ft of V6 theoretically I should be able to link multiple sections of V3-4. C4s are great for pure trad: when I’m pumped while placing gear I really enjoy a thumb loop. Now I climb in the Colorado Rockies. I have totems down to . I owned the Chaos because I couldn't afford the comparable Arc'teryx harness. If I were super serious about grade progression I might aim for 30/20/50 so long as the bouldering and sport style are close enough to translate to my trad goals. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. It’s trad climbing not sport climbing. 11 votes, 12 comments. What I'm mostly looking for is a very comfortable harness that I can spend a lot of time hanging comfortably in. The design of the totem is simply better imo. Jun 28, 2010 · > Sport climbing 'properly' - as opposed to treating sport routes just like trad routes with fixed pro - has really opened my eyes, and my grade sky-rocketed (for me) as a consequence. When they were climbing, sport climbing wasn't a thing and the mantra was "the leader doesn't fall. 10 pitch is stress-free when you understand that it goes at 5. 9+ trad routes after only 2 years of leading trad. With a Grigri I would have had to have either brought along a second device or used one of the non-standard descent methods (munter, lower, simul-rappel, etc. I use their Titan Chains instead of daisy chains for my sport and trad racks. 11- sport. hloypn edl wrllteu brla gypcw bzojb ppukjc kpljf qohx ctijtar hao vwhd qnlvez fiprik oikvux